DIY Sofa Table With Faux Doors (make it in any size you need!)

 This has been the story of my life this past year since the babe was born. I start a project, and then I'm lucky to even finish it months later. Well, this project was no exception. I started this table last summer. It has literally been 1 year later and I finally got around to finishing it. I remember cranking out furniture left and right before the babe was born, even 9 months pregnant I was still doing it. Well, I guess life changes :) But, it sure did feel good to get this piece done! And it was a ton of fun doing it; I forget how awesome it is to build a piece of furniture. Love it :)

These are plans from almost every other table I have built for the most part. It is my go to furniture plan since it so easy to do and so easy to customize to the size you need for a given space.

I've been wanting this table in my front room for forever now (1 year of course :) ) but then I decided to redo the half moon table that is currently in there. It wasn't suppose to stay in there, but it met the purpose I needed so it stayed. But I'm really sick of currently. It's just too big and doesn't fit the space like I would like.

For this project, you will need:

4 1x2s cut at 29.5"
4 1x3s cut at 29.5"
2 1x8s cut at 29"
2 1x8s cut at 6"
2 1x3s cut at 29"
2 1x3s cut at 6"
1 1x3 or 1x4 cut at 27.5"
1 1x10 cut at 45"
3 1x6 cut at 5.5" (just make sure they are square)
Wood filler
Wood Glue
Saw
Drill/screws/counter sink bit
Stain
Polyurethane
Paint
Draw pulls/knobs

Step1. If your wood isn't already cut, cut your wood. Cut 4 pieces both of the 1x2 and 1x3 at equal lengths. I cut mine all at 29.5 inches. Take one 1x3 and one 1x2 piece. Stack the 1x2 on top of the 1x3 edges meeting so that it creates a 90 degree angle. Secure this in place with the wood glue.

Step 2. Do this to all the pieces. You should have 4 'legs' once you're done. Let them dry and then counter sink 1 inch screw into the top and bottom of each piece to make sure its secure. Fill holes with wood filler.

Step 3. Lay two legs down facing each other, 1x3 piece on the ground. Place a 1x8 cut at 29 inches on the top of each one. Secure each leg to the end of the 1x8 using a 1" screw. Do this with the other two legs and other 1x8. Make sure the edges are flush.

Step 4. Now measure 3" up from the bottom of the legs on both legs and make a mark. Place the 29" 1x3 on top of the 3" mark. Wood glue into place, and screw in with a 1" screw. Do this to the other set of legs also.

Step 5. Now place two sets of legs standing up, where the 1x2s are on the ground. Use one of the 1x8s cut at 6 inches and secure to the 1x2 part of the two legs on the top, right next to the long 1x8 you just secured. Then secure a piece of a 1x3 cut at 6 inches on the bottom by the long 1x3 you secured earlier. (to make it easier to secure, you may want to pre-drill the holes at an angle before securing, then your drill won't hit the sides)

Flip the table base over and secure the other 1x8 piece and 1x3 to the opposite side just like above. Now you have your table base!

Step 6: Next you just need to secure the top! Make sure you measure so that its centered on the table base. My 1x10 is cut at 45 inches.Glue and counter sink a screw on the top into the base. I did that four times to make sure it was really on there.

Step 7: Now for the faux drawers. I just used 3 5.5"x5.5" pieces of wood. These were essentially cut square from a 1x6 piece. Find the middle of the front apron, the 1x8 piece, and secure the first square directly in the middle. Then decide how far apart you want the other two drawers and secure them also using wood glue. You can screw these in too, but if you are using drawer pulls, you won't have to do this since when you put the bolt in for the screw, you'll essentially be doing the same thing. I just added label tabs to mine...and since they are non-working, I didn't care if it was just secured with wood glue :) 

Step 8: If you would like to add a 'shelf' for the bottom, cut a 1x3 or 1x4 at 27.5" and secure in between the bottom sides.

Step 9: Now fill all the holes with wood filler then sand the entire piece. Now you are ready to paint or stain! I stained the top of mine Provincial and painted the bottom white. Coat with poly.

Step 10: After painting is when I added the tabs for the doors, you can add the drawer pulls here also. I liked this look a little better this time around, and since the drawers don't work, I didn't really care if there were pulls on it or not :)

Okay. So, now to make this customizable to the size you want:

• To make it taller or shorter: Add or subtract to the length of the legs made with the 1x2 and 1x3.
• To make it wider or narrower: Add or subtract to the side aprons, both bottom and top (these are the ones from above that measured 6"). You'll also want to make sure that your top piece will fit on the narrower or wider base.
• To make longer or shorter: Add or subtract to the front and back aprons ,both bottom and top pieces (the ones that measured 29" above).

I've changed this size up for these plans so much, that I made a bench out of it once using the exact same technique, and all these other tables: sofa table, cottage side table, a bench, and another entry table.